Un-phở-gettable: Pho My Tho
When ways of life are upended by the whims of a highly contagious virus and concomitant government mandated privations, restaurant dining has a transformed cultural role and enhanced social responsibility. This is a sharp break from an emerging societal trend that valorised celebrity chefs and ultra-bespoke cuisine, where food and eating is no longer the primary object of attention but rather the purpose of dining becomes the spectacle and novelty of the experience itself.
Although advertising and marketing is part of any industry, the fundamental shift to emphasise dining as an event subject to the caprice of any customer with a mobile phone has had significant consequences on the nature of dining out and on hospitality as a whole. For instance, this has been evidenced by a string of trends and fads that have popped into being, with many quickly disappearing — like boutique high-end 24-hour donuts (liquidation), share plates (hit and miss), saganaki martinis (weird), brioche burger buns (overrated) and, nouveau meals served on strange objects (very bad). This reviewer can recall eating a deconstructed salad off a garden trowel, which would have made even Jacques Derrida, the implacable inventor of deconstruction, blush.
In contrast to the vagaries of this aforementioned previous era, Vietnamese restaurant Pho My Tho offers an earnest and comprehensive menu that is grounded in quality ingredients, straightforward service and genuine hospitality. Their eponymous phở ($12.40) is delicate and its depth of flavour is well-rounded. It comes with ample sprouts, fresh chili and herbs. Perhaps the menu has been adjusted for a western palate, in that the proteins used are not unanticipated and the level of spiciness is not sweltering. Yet the sensations of umami are layered and textured, particularly as one savours their generously portioned broth. Also, the vegetarian (and vegan) Phở comes highly praised. With this in mind, Pho My Tho declares itself as a comfortable local restaurant that would be at home on Victoria Street, Richmond or, with a little imagination, on the backstreets of Hanoi.
Although the Phở is a highlight, it was confirmed by the Chef that customers regularly return especially for the Calamari with Special Sauce ($16.90), to which many are devoted. This reviewer can also recommend the Vietnamese Noodle Soup in Chicken Broth with Rice or Egg noodles, generously priced at $12.90 with a broad selection of protein and vegetable selections, including BBQ Pork, Wontons, Vegetables and Seafood. Entrees are well-portioned and include typical Vietnamese specialities including Rice Paper or Spring Rolls ($9) as well as fried and steamed Wontons or Satay Skewers (all $9).
The comforts of consistency against the ever-present forces of gentrification on top of our ongoing pandemic restrictions make this restaurant and ones like it extra special. Perhaps it is the sentimentality of this reviewer who recalls too many years working in family businesses, but it remains very easy to be impressed by the two siblings behind the counter, who with politeness and calm wait tables and tend the till with a minimum of fuss. Needless to say, even the most scrutinous would find their current COVID-19 precautions of an excellent standard. Also, depending on your aesthetic persuasion, one is naturally charmed by the handmade posters on the front window – including the sign that reminds the takeaway customer to bring their own bag or pay a surcharge (10c). The atmosphere of the restaurant is quiet and with a large pot of Green Tea ($2.50) to add to your Banana or Pineapple Fritter with Ice-cream ($5.50) it is very easy to dine, reflect on simple pleasures and feel our current attention-driven culture drift away.
By Henry Gardner
Pho My Tho
136 Sydney Road, Coburg
9383 1409
EFTPOS minimum $20 with cash discount of 5%
Delivery available
The Coburg Meddler 